From: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr-digest) To: dr-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: dr-digest V1 #25 Reply-To: dr-digest Sender: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk dr-digest Sunday, February 6 2000 Volume 01 : Number 025 (dr) Gold Valve misinformation... (dr) 350SE clutch plates Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils (dr) drz400e (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0 Re: (dr) drz400e (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion (dr) Nipples and Zerks ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 11:04:08 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) Gold Valve misinformation... I want to correct my earlier post. A couple of hours of education as helped me see the error of my ways. I wrote earlier about trying to make a choice with my DR650SE forks and which option to use. My post was in error. The choice I face is this: to either retain the conventional damping system (with adjustments for balance and orifice size) or to install a "Gold Valve Cartridge Emulator" system...where essentially the damping rod is opened up and the work is done by the installed unit sitting on top of the old rod. "Gold Valves" are only for cartridge style forks where the Gold Valve replaces the OEM valving unit. FWIW, the DR350 forks for my '97 (pre OEM cartridge) can be altered with an emulator kit or a complete cartridge conversion for a little less than $400 not counting new springs. So, I think I have it right and apolgize for the confusion. So, now the question is whether a non-aggressive rider who wishes to have a mostly pavement dual sport "adventurer tourer" should work with the existing damping system or go to the emulator system. This question would apply equally to KLR riders who have the same choice as the DR650 except that the KLR forks are 4mm less in diameter. Kurt - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 21:56:53 +0200 From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions. Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened = clutchcover yet) If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new = ones,when changing worn friction plates, or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed. How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my = stock 5cd27 I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions. = Thanks for the great list = Mikko from Finland = DR350SE-97 = yamaha wr250-92 - ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.

Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't = opened=20 clutchcover yet)

If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the = new=20 ones,when changing worn friction plates,

or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.

How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer = than my=20 stock 5cd27

I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.

&n= bsp; &nb= sp; &nbs= p; = ; = &= nbsp; Thanks=20 for the great list

&n= bsp; &nb= sp; &nbs= p; = ; = &= nbsp;=20 Mikko from Finland

&n= bsp; &nb= sp; &nbs= p; = ; = &= nbsp;=20 DR350SE-97

&n= bsp; &nb= sp; &nbs= p; = ; = &= nbsp; yamaha=20 wr250-92

- ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00-- - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 14:12:41 -0800 From: Brian Bucknam Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Wayne Marsula tells us: >[...]synthetic oils >are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications >where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles. > It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money... I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too old,' or 'not good enough'? But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing? Commercial vehicles? Brian - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 17:06:18 -0800 From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Brian Bucknam wrote: > > Wayne Marsula tells us: > >[...]synthetic oils > >are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications > >where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles. > > It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money... > > I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is > the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one > of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too > old,' or 'not good enough'? > > But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing? > Commercial vehicles? > > Brian Brian, Right on! Those are the two best uses for synthetic oils, some stationary engines also. But to take this a step further, I use semi-synthetic oils, engine permitting. It is a real petroleum based oil, not really a synthetic, but an "enhanced" oil. Find it works quite well, definitely "looks" cleaner, and feels better when drained than standard oils. I use Valvoline DuoBlend, other manufacturers also have similar oils. Wayne - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 22:12:19 -0500 From: Steven McGarry Subject: (dr) drz400e i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on= a dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel. a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 21:46:56 -0600 From: joseph hart Subject: (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0 Kurt, Is your Corbin on your DR650 as wide and as comfortable as the corbin on your KLR. Thanks in Advance, Joe - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 19:56:03 -0800 (PST) From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e - --- Steven McGarry wrote: > > > > > i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz > 400e and they put it on a > dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear > wheel. > a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. > >I'd be hard pressed to buy this one since a stock DR350 can put up numbers close to that. > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 02:01:43 -0500 From: "James Alan Tomkins" Subject: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion I just signed up to this list server about a week ago and would like to say hello to everyone. I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring, which I usually do. Furthermore, it takes less than 10 minutes do it. About the same amount of time it takes to finish that first beer after a long ride. I'll bet the inside of my case looks much better than anyone running synthetic oil for 1000+ miles. Additionally, the oil cooler on the 650 helps with heat dissipation which I believe further negates the need for synthetic oils. It's one of the main reasons I didn't buy a 350. Jim - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 23:28:48 -0800 From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion James Alan Tomkins wrote: > > I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on > synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 > miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes > (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor > oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in > Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me > about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring, > which I usually do. Hi Jim, Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently is also unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much longer than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, but it really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you need to. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 00:03:11 -0800 From: Tom Myers Subject: (dr) Nipples and Zerks >This topic was briefly touched upon last year, but nothing substantial ever >landed in the archives... > >Has anyone successfully installed grease nipples in the steering head and >swing-arms of their .....s? If so we need the details, details, details... I put a zerk on my steeringhead bearing (XR600), greased it ONCE, and the thing burped grease onto the fender for years. It was a mess. Probably due to the temperature fluctuations of the drysump oil reservoir. Might not be a problem on non-reservoir frames. I suggest simply taking it apart and repack with a good quality waterproof grease. There's not enough action at the steeringhead to warrant a zerk. It's not worth the mess IMHO. Make sure any seals related to the greased bearing can pass the old grease. Would be bad to push the seals out at first greasing. Also verify that you won't be filling other frame tubes with grease thru welding vents. Suspension bearings are a different story. I've cut into the bearings with a dremel, drilled passages, and installed zerks on every bike I've owned, and never have had to replace any suspension bearings, even living in the wet Northwest. Sometimes there's no room for a zerk, so you just press a "cone fitting" into the drilled hole. This is for hardcore craftsmen only. You have to be able to discern the "no-load" directions of each bearing before grinding holes into them. To pierce the bearing, use a dremel with the "cutoff wheel". Grind a narrow slot (very carefully) until the metal becomes paper-thin and discolors. Don't break thru . Stop grinding, wash away all the grinding dust, and break out the thin metal with a sharp tool. Drill your passageways, and remember you have to provide a method for the old grease to exit past the seals. The pressure might ruin some kinds of seals which are not designed to let pressure pass. You might have to loosen pivot bolts before greasing. After pumping the new grease in, just cover the hole with silicone. It works. Silicone adheres to metal right thru grease, which is hard to believe until you try it. Very satisfying to hear the snap crackle pop of new grease pushing out the old grease (and sometimes water). Or just disassemble the thing and reassemble with waterproof grease once a year. Tom +-------------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products | 701 34th Ave | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | | Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com/mc | e-mail: moto@cycoactive.com | tel (206) 323-2349 fax (206) 325-6016 +-------------------------------------------+ - - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------ End of dr-digest V1 #25 *********************** - To unsubscribe to $LIST, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe $LIST" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.